This review is from: Stargoods 3D Printer Kit – Tempered Glass, Removal Tool & Painters Tape
Glass is fairly flat as my piece has about 0.008″ of runout. The corners are nice and beveled so you won’t cut yourself. Hatchbox brand red abs has been sticking to it without any sort of hairspray, or glue. When you let the plate cool, ABS literally removes it’s self. PLA is a breeze. The removal tool is fairly thick, and sturdy for harder to remove prints. The tape is nice and wide but I haven’t found a use for it yet as the glass works so well without it. Would recommend attaching this with binder clips to remove and let cool.
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This review is from: Stargoods 3D Printer Kit – Tempered Glass, Removal Tool & Painters Tape
Best bang for your buck! I ran across this when I was ready to order from another seller on Amazon for $32! Glad I did! The edges have a nice chamfer all around. The scraper and tape is an awesome bonus, but the scraper is ridiculously large. For my Flashforge Creator (wooden), I needed the z-axis shim and found that on Thingiverse. And there are plenty of glass corner clips available on there too. Very thick (7mm). I may order a 2nd one.
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This review is from: Backyard Chicken Coop Plans with Kennel / Run, Salbox / Lean-to 4 ft x 10 ft Two-in-One Plans , Design 60410SL
Building on the weekends, this took us about 2 months to complete. Both my boyfriend and I have fair amounts of building experience and haven’t had any problems so far; but for someone with no experience, the plans may be a little hard to understand as most of the “instruction” really is interpretation of the drawings.
The materials list and cutting list have a few mistakes: We used 4 sheets of OSB (not 5 as listed) and 5 sheets of plywood (not 3 as listed); paint will be closer to 1 gallon as the untreated lumber sucks it up; we also used 2 1/2 bundles of shingles (list says 1, we could have gotten away with 2 but we shingled the nest box as well); 6-7 feet of rope (not 5). Piece C16: use the birds mouth pattern and your notch will be about 2 1/4 inch in, not 3 1/8 as listed; Step 3 – center truss gets 2 gussets, other gussets (on end trusses) should face in towards middle; E10 = 3 1/2 x 16 1/2 (not 16 1/8), D7 is the ramp panel (not D6); G9 – need 2 vertical window trims (not 12), For the Kennel = a few mistakes on the chicken wire sizes: F1 needs to be 66″ long (not 56); F3 = you will need 2 of these, not the 1 listed; F5 = will be closer to 68″ high and F6 closer to 60. The best bet is to measure these pieces to fit as you will be finagling the frame to make sure it is square and this will change the lengths a little. Also, we wound up needing closer to 60 feet of hardware cloth – can use the 24″ wide size. For the coop, we also changed the roost to only two cross pieces so that it doesn’t take up the whole inside of the coop = we needed some room to put our water inside and the full roost took up too much space. We only have 5 hens so this worked for us. Overall = a good design.
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This review is from: Backyard Chicken Coop Plans with Kennel / Run, Salbox / Lean-to 4 ft x 10 ft Two-in-One Plans , Design 60410SL
Good plans so far. Building out of 2X4 instead of 2X3. Make adjustments accordingly. 2X3 is not a standard board. I can’t get 2X3 where I live. I would have to rip on my table saw. Too much work. I at first posted a negative review, but being the perfect geek that I am I knew I followed the insructions perfectly. And I did. Just didn’t account for the difference in boards. I’ve built a lot of buildings in my life and a couple of houses. I’ve never worked with 2X3 lumber, NEVER! When I frame, I’ve framed with tens of thousands of 2X4. 2X3 does not register with me. Allow for difference if you construct from 2X4.
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The corners are nice and beveled so you won’t cut yourself,
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Best bang for your buck,
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Printing PLA on the glass with hairspray for hold. …,
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Materials List Mistake,
The materials list and cutting list have a few mistakes: We used 4 sheets of OSB (not 5 as listed) and 5 sheets of plywood (not 3 as listed); paint will be closer to 1 gallon as the untreated lumber sucks it up; we also used 2 1/2 bundles of shingles (list says 1, we could have gotten away with 2 but we shingled the nest box as well); 6-7 feet of rope (not 5). Piece C16: use the birds mouth pattern and your notch will be about 2 1/4 inch in, not 3 1/8 as listed; Step 3 – center truss gets 2 gussets, other gussets (on end trusses) should face in towards middle; E10 = 3 1/2 x 16 1/2 (not 16 1/8), D7 is the ramp panel (not D6); G9 – need 2 vertical window trims (not 12), For the Kennel = a few mistakes on the chicken wire sizes: F1 needs to be 66″ long (not 56); F3 = you will need 2 of these, not the 1 listed; F5 = will be closer to 68″ high and F6 closer to 60. The best bet is to measure these pieces to fit as you will be finagling the frame to make sure it is square and this will change the lengths a little. Also, we wound up needing closer to 60 feet of hardware cloth – can use the 24″ wide size. For the coop, we also changed the roost to only two cross pieces so that it doesn’t take up the whole inside of the coop = we needed some room to put our water inside and the full roost took up too much space. We only have 5 hens so this worked for us. Overall = a good design.
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Four Stars,
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Good so far!,
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